In the age of fast fashion, sustainability is too often reduced to comforting buzzwords such as “recycled”, “organic”, or “eco-friendly”. While these labels sound reassuring, they frequently obscure a far more important question; how long is a product actually used? A so-called sustainable item discarded after a handful of wears does little to reduce environmental harm. Longevity, not labelling, is the most honest measure of sustainability.
The true cost of short-lived fashion
Fashion’s environmental footprint is immense. Each year, more than 90 million tonnes of textile waste are generated globally, much of it from garments worn fewer than ten times. This waste is not simply a disposal problem; it reflects inefficiencies across raw material extraction, manufacturing, transport, and energy use. When products are designed for rapid replacement, emissions multiply across repeated production cycles.
Why longevity reduces environmental impact
Designing products to last directly addresses this imbalance. A durable item worn hundreds of times significantly lowers its environmental cost per use. Manufacturing a single pair of shoes can generate substantial carbon emissions, but when that pair is worn over several years instead of a few months, the environmental return on investment improves dramatically. Studies consistently show that extending a product’s lifespan can cut its overall footprint almost in half.
The hidden risk of durability without degradation
Durability alone, however, is not a complete solution. Many long-lasting products rely on synthetic materials that resist natural breakdown, creating persistence pollution. Footwear, in particular, often ends up in landfills for centuries due to petroleum-based rubbers and adhesives. Long life without a responsible end-of-life strategy merely postpones environmental damage.
Designed mortality: built to last, meant to return
The future of sustainable fashion lies in what can be called “designed mortality”. Products must be engineered to withstand years of wear while being capable of degrading safely at the end of their life. Advances in material science now make this possible. Natural latex composites, bio-based foams, and reinforced plant fibres can endure repeated use yet break down under natural conditions, leaving no microplastics behind.
Circularity requires dual design thinking
True circularity demands a dual approach: extensive use followed by responsible reintegration into natural systems. This stands in contrast to the linear “take, make, waste” model that dominates the industry. Materials such as hemp-canvas uppers, biodegradable synthetics, and modular components maintain structural integrity through daily wear while remaining compostable. Crucially, these materials break down in real-world conditions, not just in specialised facilities.
Durability is not the enemy of lower emissions
A common criticism is that durable products require more material and therefore generate higher emissions upfront. Lifecycle assessments tell a different story. Extending a product’s life by even 50 per cent can significantly reduce its total carbon footprint once reduced replacement rates are factored in. In footwear, bio-rubber and plant-derived alternatives now match or exceed the performance of conventional materials without relying on fossil fuels.
Longevity shapes consumer behaviour
Designing for repeat use also influences how people consume. Well-made, adaptable products are more likely to be valued, repaired, and retained. Modular features, such as replaceable soles, extend product life while encouraging care over disposal. Longevity fosters trust, shifting consumer relationships from trend-driven purchases to long-term ownership.
Challenging fashion’s culture of constant newness
The fashion industry’s obsession with rapid trend cycles fuels overproduction and waste. With dozens of micro-seasons each year, novelty is prioritised over endurance. Yet evidence increasingly shows that durable, timeless products reduce returns and logistics-related emissions. Longevity enhances desirability by offering stability in a system built on excess.
A practical path forward
Policymakers and brands have a critical opportunity to support this transition. Incentives for verified durability, standards for minimum use cycles, and transparent labelling such as “expected wears: 500” could redefine sustainability in practical terms. Consumer education is equally vital, shifting focus from marketing claims to measurable use.
Designing for repeat use is not anti-innovation. It is the next evolution of sustainable fashion. A product that thrives through hundreds of cycles and returns gently to the earth embodies sustainability at its most credible and necessary.
